Greece’s beloved brew with a contentious name
In Greece, ordering a coffee isn’t just a casual choice; it’s a part of cultural identity. If you find yourself in a Greek kafeneio and ask for a “Turkish coffee,” you might receive a polite correction or even an eyebrow raise. A straight up denial of service is not unheard of either, depending on who you run into. The drink itself—known locally as ellinikos kafes (Greek coffee)—is brewed with pride and sipped with delight across Greece, and calling it “Turkish” can be a touchy subject for locals that still haven’t forgotten the centuries of Ottoman rule over their proud people.
In this article we will explore where the controversy comes from, and how its origins and history weave into Greek identity.
What is “Turkish” coffee?
Let’s start with what the so-called “Turkish” coffee actually is. This coffee, known for its rich, thick texture and unfiltered preparation, is a staple in several regions around the Mediterranean and the Middle East. The coffee is made from finely ground coffee beans boiled in a small pot called a briki in Greek (or cezve in Turkish). Unlike drip coffee or espresso, “Turkish” coffee isn’t filtered, leaving the grounds to settle at the bottom of the cup, creating a unique drinking experience where the last sip is best left untouched.
Traditionally, this coffee is served with a layer of foam on top, and it’s slowly sipped to enjoy the full flavor. Greeks have a special way of preparing it, from the meticulous boiling process to the optional spoonful of sugar added to the grounds before brewing, depending on whether you prefer it sketos (no sugar), metrios (medium sweet), or glykos (sweet).
A brief history of “Turkish” coffee
Though this style of coffee is known as “Turkish,” its origins trace back to the Arabian Peninsula, where coffee was first cultivated and consumed in the 15th century. It made its way through the Ottoman Empire, where it was popularized, refined, and spread throughout many regions under Ottoman rule, including Greece.
The name “Turkish coffee” became widespread as the Ottoman Empire introduced this unique preparation style to Europe and beyond. Over centuries, it became associated with the Turkish style of brewing rather than its Arabian origins. It’s much like calling certain pastries “Danish,” despite their origins being elsewhere—the name sticks because of the region that popularized it, not necessarily where it first appeared.
“Turkish” coffee in Greece: A complicated label
Greece shares this deep-rooted coffee tradition with other countries formerly under Ottoman rule, including Turkey, Cyprus, and parts of the Balkans. But unlike for instance in Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia and especially Bosnia, calling it “Turkish” coffee in Greece doesn’t sit well with locals. For Greeks, this drink is a part of their culture, and referring to it as “Turkish” invokes a shared history that is often painful, fraught with war, occupation, and political tension.
The Greek War of Independence in the 1820s (1821-1829) freed Greece from Ottoman rule, ending nearly four centuries of occupation. Following this, various conflicts and tensions simmered between Greece and Turkey, leading to wars, territorial disputes, and population exchanges, most notably in the early 20th century when thousands of ethnic Greeks and Turks were uprooted from their homes. These historical conflicts still resonate today, and the rivalry between the two nations occasionally flares up in politics, sports, and culture. For many Greeks, calling the coffee “Turkish” is a reminder of those hardships and losses, and can be seen as a slap in the face.
Introducing: Greek coffee (Ellinikos kafes)
Because of this historical context, locals refer to it as ellinikos kafes or “Greek coffee.” While the ingredients and preparation are essentially the same, the Greek name gives it a sense of national pride and cultural ownership, separating it from Turkey and reinforcing its place in Greek tradition.
Names carry powerful associations, especially when tied to cultural identity. Consider how different countries or regions label certain foods to align with their heritage. For example, in Britain, “French fries” are called “chips,” and “chips” in the U.S. are referred to as “crisps” in the U.K. Similarly, in the U.S., “biscuit” refers to a soft, bread-like food, while in Britain, a biscuit is a crunchy cookie. These variations are accepted and embraced because they reflect regional distinctions and pride.
Imagine ordering a New York bagel in Paris and being corrected to call it “French bread” instead; the name matters because of the cultural identity attached to it. Similarly, in Greece, calling their coffee “Turkish” feels like erasing a part of their cultural heritage, especially given the difficult history between the two countries. It’s a small but significant way Greeks assert their distinct culture and identity.
Is the Greek reaction overblown?
Some might say the reaction is intense, but to truly understand it, you must consider the historical and emotional weight attached to the term. For Greeks, it’s about more than coffee; it’s about preserving their identity and honoring their cultural journey. Many Greeks feel that calling it “Greek coffee” honors the way they’ve made it their own.
However, visitors should also recognize that this isn’t just a Greek issue. Similar naming tensions exist between other countries with deep-rooted cultural rivalries. The Macedonian naming dispute, for instance, highlights how names can carry intense emotions and pride for cultural groups. In Greece, names are seen as a powerful extension of heritage, and calling it “Greek coffee” is one small way to assert that heritage, particularly given the complex history with Turkey.
Is calling it “Greek coffee” cultural appropriation, and why not?
The debate over calling it “Greek coffee” can indeed raise questions of cultural appropriation, particularly since the brewing method, ingredients, and experience are identical to what’s elsewhere generally known as “Turkish coffee.” Some argue that renaming a cultural item after adopting it is an attempt to claim it as one’s own, rather than respecting its original roots.
But the Greek coffee situation is layered with the region’s complex history. Unlike a simple culinary trend that gets “borrowed” and renamed in the process, the so-called “Turkish coffee” was introduced to Greece during a time of Ottoman rule, which lasted for nearly four centuries and left a lasting impact on Greek culture, often through forced assimilation rather than choice. When Greece gained independence, renaming Turkish-associated items, that have by then become part of their own culture, became a way to assert cultural sovereignty and establish a distinct national identity. In that context, calling it “Greek coffee” wasn’t an attempt to erase Turkish origins but rather a reaction against centuries of foreign influence and control.
So, while it may appear like cultural appropriation from the outside, in Greece, it’s seen as a way of reclaiming an experience and a ritual that has been deeply ingrained in Greek daily life for centuries. In other words, in the four centuries under the Ottomans the coffee and connected habits and “rituals” became Greek, regardless of who introduced it.
Final thoughts
For many Greeks, ellinikos kafes (Greek coffee) is not just coffee; it’s a daily ritual, a taste of home, and a connection to their cultural roots. While the ingredients and preparation may mirror those of “Turkish coffee,” calling it “Greek coffee” in Greece is a small but meaningful way of honoring their heritage and asserting their cultural independence. So, when in Greece, order an ellinikos kafes with confidence, knowing it’s more than just a name—it’s part of a rich, storied tradition that Greek people hold close to their hearts.